Friday, 12 December 2014

Replacing Frida Giannini

I woke up this morning expecting to see my Twitter timeline filled with more comments about Russell Brand on Question Time last night [I kinda forgot he existed after he broke up with Katy Perry to be honest, but I admire his interest in politics!]. Instead, I was barraged with tweets from British Vogue, Business of Fashion, i-D Magazine etc. that Gucci's Creative Director Frida Giannini and her significant other Patrizio di Marco, Gucci's CEO were leaving the brand. I'm getting whip-lash from the sheer number of new appointments at some major fashion houses; Johnny Coca at Mulberry, Guilaume Henry at Nina Ricci, Peter Copping at Oscar de la Renta and finally the return of my favourite couturier of all time Mr John Galliano at Margiela. 

The only show I really care about during Milan Fashion Week is Prada, unfortunately before A/W 14' the last time I was really excited by a Gucci collection was S/S 11'. Italy's fashion industry is in a crisis because of hundreds of reasons, from lack of support from the Government to the fashion funds that don't actually finance projects. However, I think what would really breathe life into Milan's tired streets, is new blood. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but there is no creative director below the age of 30 at the helm of any of the major Italian brands? There's nothing wrong with having industry veterans like Donatella Versace, Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada, however Donatella Versace is a senior citizen. I kid you not, Donatella Versace is a senior citizen! Let that sink in.

Fall 14'

Summer 11'
Young Creative Directors can do very powerful things at fashion houses, case study: Balmain. Now, I'm no Balmain fan or Olivier Rousteing for various reasons but I respect him for being so young, and his casting decisions for his ad campaigns. Balmain was irrelevant to Hollywood and the younger generation once upon a time because of it's extortionate pricing and mediocre designs, but because Olivier Rousteing is desperate to be the 11th Kardashian and cement his status amongst the crème de la crème of music, everyone wants to join the Balmain army- except me of course. Whatever, your opinion is on Olivier's obsession with celebrity culture, the fact of the matter is, every time we hear Nicki and A$AP namedrop his brand in their songs, Erich Fayer is laughing all the way to the bank. See Balmain sales below:

"Balmain posted sales of €30.4 million ($41.1 million) in 2012 and a profit of €3.1 million, according to financial statements filed with the Paris commercial court. In the past three years, the company's revenue has nearly doubled, rising from €16.5 million in 2009." -WSJ

Jeremy Scott has managed to revitalise Moschino, and he may not be under the age of 30, but the point is that someone with completely new and fresh ideas for Gucci would probably be a good thing, not necessarily for the brand's elitist desire, but it would definitely save their sales from getting any worse. I couldn't find Moschino's sales figures anywhere, but here is what I did find which I'm sure gives some indication for just how well the brand is doing.

" In August, department store Selfridges told the FT that it had to reorder Moschino’s French fry phone cover in homage to McDonald’s three times to meet demand. At online retailer Net-a-Porter, according to its buying manager Sasha Sarokin, sales of that and other Moschino cases, such as a melting lollipop, have been “insane-Financial Times

I know phone cases aren't clothes, but basically, Moschino is selling extremely well right now! Gucci, not so much. Before the rumour-mill really starts gaining momentum in February when Frida presents her last collection, I wanted to share my thoughts on who I think could replace her.

The Safe Option: Tom Ford

Don't even pretend like you all don't want this to happen. In the words of Hung, "Tom Ford for Gucci 2.0" would be beyond brilliant.

Sensible Option 1: Riccardo Tisci

This would be redemption for creating Givenchy's t-shirt culture and the best option after Tom Ford.

Sensible Option 2: Peter Dundas

Personally, I don't find Pucci offensive and I think this wouldn't be too much of a step up for Mr Dundas in terms of responsibility.

Adventurous Option 1: Alexandre Vauthier

I know he's a couturier, but he has the skill set to do it!

Adventurous Option 2: Christopher Kane

I want to preserve him until he takes the reigns from Donatella at Versace in a few years, but Christopher Kane could be perfect for the job [see JW Anderson at Loewe as a reference!!!!]

Adventurous Option 3: Christophe Lemaire

It's a completely different vibe to Hermès of course, but like Riccardo Tisci, he could most definitely handle the job and would bring the exclusivity back to Gucci that I feel it's lost.

Wildcard/Dream Option: Cushnie & Ochs

I have no idea why I've only recently started paying attention to Cushnie & Ochs but I feel this would be the second coming of 90s Tom Ford at Gucci, in 2015.

Thank you for reading,

P.S. I broke up from school today, so expect some posts over the next few weeks!
P.S.S. Wishing anyone that still reads this blog a Merry Christmas in case I don't get around to posting before then!

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Five Fashion Exhibitions To See This Bank Holiday Weekend

So this isn't handbag related like I said it would be yesterday [technically two days ago considering I've found solace in blogging at 1am.], but I got bored of looking at bags I can't afford right now, although I did discover a really beautiful Chloé bag that I've never noticed before on Net-A-Porter today, so I'll probably cover that on here soon. So today marks the start of the Bank Holiday weekend and in case you all have nothing planned, I've created a list of some fashion exhibitions you may want to go to. I'm going to visit the Jean Paul Gaultier one tomorrow and will probably visit a few on Sunday, and will finally go to Notting Hill Carnival for the first time on Monday- pray for me that I come back in one piece.

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk

Where is it? The Barbican [nearest station: Barbican/St Paul's/Moorgate]

Why go? If you have to pick one exhibition to go to this weekend, choose this one. Jean Paul Gaultier is one of the most iconic French fashion designers, and one of the few that I consider to be a true couturier. I'm so excited to see this exhibition because what else does one want to see at an exhibition apart from avant-garde clothing, over-priced themed fashion food and vintage fashion films. The reviews have been really good too so I don't think this will be a waste of money.

Wedding Dresses 1775-2014 

Where is it? The Victoria & Albert Museum [nearest station: South Kensington]

Why go? Any girl that claims she doesn't have some idea about what she wants her wedding dress to look like is a liar. Plain and simple. Your wedding dress is the single most important garment you will wear in your existence and possibly the most beautiful. Every female should visit this exhibition not only for potential inspiration [don't be afraid to say "no" to conventional beauty on your wedding day by the way], but also to understand why million of females around the planet each have their very own Pinterest board dedicated to wedding dresses [assume what you want about me but I will not disclose whether or not I have one].

Trend Spotters 

Where is it? The Cervantes Institute [nearest station: Sloane Square]

Why go? Spanish fashion. Spanish fashion is still something extremely new and I think will be very exciting in the next 5 years or so. Italy continues to facilitate it's own demise in fashion, there's too much minimalism in New York, London has pretty much established who she wants to champion as her "exciting" designers and Meadham Kirchoff and co. won't be giving p their spots anytime soon, and finally Paris has just become a farce since it allowed celebrity culture to have as much importance as the clothes. I'm now paying attention to the "new markets" such as Spain, Brazil and Australia as professed by the Financial Times. Before venturing into the world of Spanish fashion, it makes sense to have some idea about it's history which is why this exhibition is perfect for anyone willing to learn.

Made in Mexico The Rebozo in Art, Culture & Fashion 

Where is it? The Fashion and Textile Museum [nearest station: London Bridge]

Why go? Like Spain, Mexico is another fashion market that has the potential to hold some importance in the next 10 years or so, once it's lost it's stigma of gang warfare over drugs like Brazil is gradually doing. This exhibition is also not only about fashion but Mexican culture and art too!

Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs 

Where is it? The Tate Modern [nearest station: Southwark/Blackfriars/St Paul's]

Why go? Ok, before you pounce on the fact that Matisse was not a fashion designer but an artist and send me hate mail on Tumblr, Matisse actually did more than most designers because it was his work that inspired them. This exhibition like the Jean Paul Gaultier one, has also had very strong reviews so I don't think this will be a waste of money either.

Please let me know in the comment box below if you did manage to go to one of these exhibitions and how they were! I'll hopefully be able to review the Jean Paul Gaultier one tomorrow evening in case you wanted to wait for my thoughts on it before you buy a ticket!

Thank you for reading and have a nice Bank Holiday weekend,
Le Style Connoisseur

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Thursday, 21 August 2014

The Worst of Fall 2014

I think this is the first time that I've published two posts in one day! This was a lot harder to do than I thought it would be because the fall campaigns this year have generally been strong and very few have been dire- only really good or vanilla. But please see which ones I decided to choose! 

La Perla.
I love Daria Strokous but my goodness, she looks way too skinny here and I'm not one to usually comment or feel uncomfortable about how thin models look. 

The Best of Fall 2014

All of the best blogs I follow have been making posts about the fall campaigns they love and hate, so I didn't want to make a post about it too but no-one seems to share the same opinion as me so it's my turn! Here are best campaigns of A/W 2014.

Anna Ewers is one of my favourite models right now and she looks fantastic here. Love the shop-window motif, the light photography you can see in the glass pane and the lace-up shoes. Very hot. Very Versace.